Saturday, November 21, 2009

Run to the Hills -

- why? 'cause Iron Maiden said so, nope. because

this is the air we breath:

the onset of winter in salt lake means two things, perfect sending temps for the granites' slabbiest of routes and the dreaded inversion.

so head on up the canyons for the clean air and perfect friction


nothing but fun on arm and hammer

approaching one of the coolest pitchs in the wasatch, the 'zion curtain'

megaclassic, megahard, cymbals of the sun

cymbals is THE multipitch slab route to do.

it's desperate in many places

and even with perfect friction, you still will probably fall - many times

lovin it, high above the valley smog

Monday, November 16, 2009

Iconic America

philadelpha with my brother-in-law...

philly+lee from andrew Burr on Vimeo.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

New Routes

Here in the Wasatch, like many places around the country, we have a HUGE bolting problem. Bolts are being fired into any climbable chunk of stone at an alarming rate. This has been going on unchecked (well until very recently) for several years now. It's in vogue, I guess. It seems as though this has been happening regardless of rock quality, aesthetics, or reason. I don't know why. Is it to leave 'your' mark, the adventure of putting up a new route, or because the average climber with a decent income has come to the realization that you can buy a new drill for $200? I don't know.

But i do know that i don't like it.

So, I was very pleased to hear about two new routes that went up this fall here in LCC that required NO bolts.

Bad Motha 5.12 (it's between badlands and mother of pearl - hence the name)

we were all pulling for brad-lands, but guess it didn't make the cut, maybe it could be an aka?

steep, slabby, technical, and powerful

b-rad with the send and FFA

brad barlage that is...

nut-zac eyeing up this long forgotten beast of a route on the lizard head

giving it a good burn, but eventually getting spit out like so many before

it looks real easy from the ground, there's only two body lengths of real hard climbing, and yes it overhangs and leans to the right (but of course)

this route has been looked at and tried for 20+ years and back in the day when this thing should have been sent, they didn't make cams big enough. and nowadays, people don't climb wide cracks nearly enough.

so it was time for a send, and after zac and i failed miserably, i enlisted pete the greek to put this sucker to bed and with the FFA of cashmere crack 5.11+, he did so. check out that fine sweater he is wearing.

he also created the hardest OW in little (sans the freak show of trench warfare), a testpiece for years to come.

warming up with tea on the block that almost killed us. it fell out of the upper crack, almost on pete's head while he finger jammed behind it.