Wednesday, September 30, 2009

LCC's Hardest?

A Guide to nabbing the FFA of LCC’s hardest climb – The Alpenbock Crack (Project) aka the 5.14 crack.

***Disclaimer: Unless your naturally gifted at levitation, are having serious relationship problems, or have Lost Arrows for fingertips, this route will not be worth the walk.

The Beta: Park at the Grit Mill, cross the street and stream and thrash up the hill for an hour (machete and eye protection recommended) and then get your ‘mountain goat on’ for the last little bit.

The Rack: Double set of mega-small to .75 camalots and a few small to medium stoppers. You wouln’t use all of it, but alas it’s not that much gear or heavy for that matter, to carry up the hill. Don’t worry though; placing gear on the go for a true redpoint send will be more than a testpiece, it will be superhuman.

The Zone: A couple of bolted/mixed slabby routes are in the area (Budge’s I presume) to ‘warm up on’ if you so choose, but honestly, the ‘Teton 4th class’ death approach and getting the rope up the measly little 45feet to facilitate a TR burn seem to do the trick just fine. And staying true to Little Cottonwood standards, it leans to the right, but of course! ***There's no red tag, so get after it and be the first to send!

Monday, September 28, 2009

LPC's Lowe Route

so, i found myself up at Lone Peak Cirque a few times this fall with 'Pete the Greek' and we had a spare hour and figured, hey, why not shoot the last pitch of Out of the Question?

and if you don't know Pete, then he's usually game for whatever, ESPECIALLY if he doesn't need a rope. so for your viewing pleasure here is Pete the Greek climbing the Lowe Route into Out of the Question sans rope

Friday, September 25, 2009

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Hurricane Bill, Acadia, & Lobsters

the calm after the storm

'a dare by the sea' getting swallowed

the otter cliffs

and you wonder how people get swept into the ocean and die...

a newly washed 'a dare by the sea'

morning glory

great head and the head arete

bridging the gap

some gigantic northeastern lichen

pins and pipedream

some sort of flower

and a bug too

lobster pound at bar harbor aka bahh haabbbahhh

thanks you guys!

Friday, September 4, 2009

A Date with Hooker

wind river mountains, wyoming

at mile 12, we leave the horses

thanks for helping with those 75 lbs

fresh snow on the pass

16 miles later, camp

and after 10 minutes, camp is already a disaster

better food management

encase of emergencies, this spoon doubles as a light

northeast face of mt. hooker

alpine lake

climbing 'red light district'

wet cracks


into the shadows...

...the cold shadows

attempting a new route 'red direct'

on the summit and still cold