A Guide to nabbing the FFA of LCC’s hardest climb – The Alpenbock Crack (Project) aka the 5.14 crack.
***Disclaimer: Unless your naturally gifted at levitation, are having serious relationship problems, or have Lost Arrows for fingertips, this route will not be worth the walk.
The Beta: Park at the Grit Mill, cross the street and stream and thrash up the hill for an hour (machete and eye protection recommended) and then get your ‘mountain goat on’ for the last little bit.
The Rack: Double set of mega-small to .75 camalots and a few small to medium stoppers. You wouln’t use all of it, but alas it’s not that much gear or heavy for that matter, to carry up the hill. Don’t worry though; placing gear on the go for a true redpoint send will be more than a testpiece, it will be superhuman.
The Zone: A couple of bolted/mixed slabby routes are in the area (Budge’s I presume) to ‘warm up on’ if you so choose, but honestly, the ‘Teton 4th class’ death approach and getting the rope up the measly little 45feet to facilitate a TR burn seem to do the trick just fine. And staying true to Little Cottonwood standards, it leans to the right, but of course! ***There's no red tag, so get after it and be the first to send!