A Guide to nabbing the FFA of LCC’s hardest climb – The Alpenbock Crack (Project) aka the 5.14 crack.
***Disclaimer: Unless your naturally gifted at levitation, are having serious relationship problems, or have Lost Arrows for fingertips, this route will not be worth the walk.
The Beta: Park at the Grit Mill, cross the street and stream and thrash up the hill for an hour (machete and eye protection recommended) and then get your ‘mountain goat on’ for the last little bit.
The Rack: Double set of mega-small to .75 camalots and a few small to medium stoppers. You wouln’t use all of it, but alas it’s not that much gear or heavy for that matter, to carry up the hill. Don’t worry though; placing gear on the go for a true redpoint send will be more than a testpiece, it will be superhuman.
The Zone: A couple of bolted/mixed slabby routes are in the area (Budge’s I presume) to ‘warm up on’ if you so choose, but honestly, the ‘Teton 4th class’ death approach and getting the rope up the measly little 45feet to facilitate a TR burn seem to do the trick just fine. And staying true to Little Cottonwood standards, it leans to the right, but of course! ***There's no red tag, so get after it and be the first to send!
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Monday, September 28, 2009
LPC's Lowe Route
so, i found myself up at Lone Peak Cirque a few times this fall with 'Pete the Greek' and we had a spare hour and figured, hey, why not shoot the last pitch of Out of the Question?
and if you don't know Pete, then he's usually game for whatever, ESPECIALLY if he doesn't need a rope. so for your viewing pleasure here is Pete the Greek climbing the Lowe Route into Out of the Question sans rope
and if you don't know Pete, then he's usually game for whatever, ESPECIALLY if he doesn't need a rope. so for your viewing pleasure here is Pete the Greek climbing the Lowe Route into Out of the Question sans rope
Friday, September 25, 2009
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Hurricane Bill, Acadia, & Lobsters
the calm after the storm
'a dare by the sea' getting swallowed
the otter cliffs
and you wonder how people get swept into the ocean and die...
a newly washed 'a dare by the sea'
morning glory
great head and the head arete
bridging the gap
some gigantic northeastern lichen
pins and pipedream
some sort of flower
and a bug too
lobster pound at bar harbor aka bahh haabbbahhh
thanks you guys!
Friday, September 4, 2009
A Date with Hooker
wind river mountains, wyoming
at mile 12, we leave the horses
thanks for helping with those 75 lbs
fresh snow on the pass
16 miles later, camp
and after 10 minutes, camp is already a disaster
better food management
encase of emergencies, this spoon doubles as a light
northeast face of mt. hooker
alpine lake
climbing 'red light district'
wet cracks
lost
into the shadows...
...the cold shadows
attempting a new route 'red direct'
on the summit and still cold
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